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The chance of glimpsing the Northern Lights is one of Finnish Lapland’s major draws, and there’s something enchanting and utterly captivating about them. Local Sámi legend tells of an Arctic fox dashing through the night sky so fast that its tail sparked against the tops of the fells, creating the Aurora Borealis – indeed the Finnish name for it, revontulet, literally translates as ‘fire fox’. And contrary to popular belief, it’s not only a winter phenomenon. In fact the Northern Lights are normally visible from late August right through to April, and autumn, with its clearer weather and intense solar activity, is one of the best times to see them.
In recent years a number of glass-roofed accommodation options have sprung up across Finnish Lapland, offering visitors the opportunity to watch the sky come alive from the comfort of their beds. My first travels to the region in January 2020 included a brief stop at the bar of one, and it left me longing to return to experience a proper night’s stay. So, I was delighted to see that the itinerary for my latest trip included exactly that.
Located 16km from the ski town of Levi, Northern Lights Village Levi is well away from any light pollution that could lessen the odds of seeing the Aurora. It’s only been in operation for a couple of years, but it’s the sister outfit of one of the original glass-roofed resorts in Saariselkä and follows the same tried-and-tested formula.
Our group arrived at around 5pm and we were each shown to one of the 40 cabins, which are spaced well apart and positioned so that every one has a clear view to the north (the direction in which the lights tend to appear). Inside, they’re simple but beautifully done, with wood-lined walls and soothing grey and white decor. Each has a sofa, a high table with a couple of stools, an ensuite shower room, a minibar, tea and coffee-making kit, and double or twin beds covered in a cloud-like duvet and a soft woollen blanket. There’s also an electric fireplace so you can enjoy the cosiness of flickering flames without any hassle, plus an iPad for contacting reception and checking the Aurora forecast. But the star feature, of course, is the glass roof, complete with laser heating that clears away snow or condensation at the tap of a button.
After a busy day of hiking and lake swimming, I was glad to have some time to relax before dinner, so I made myself a cuppa and sat down with a book. But I soon found myself captivated by the view outside and abandoned reading in favour of sprawling out on the bed, basking in the golden rays of an early autumn evening.
Emerging a couple of hours later, I found the resort’s paths lined with candles, lighting the way to the on-site restaurant and bar. The space itself is minimalist yet cosy, with long wooden tables, sleek black lamps and sofas clustered around a contemporary double-sided hearth, and the food we sampled was delicious. Our meal started with a nutty salad, topped with slithers of smoked reindeer for the meat eaters. This was followed by Arctic char with a wild mushroom sauce and, for dessert, ice cream with chocolate and tangy sea buckthorn. I was very impressed by the slant towards local and seasonal ingredients, as well as the lovely little touches such as glassware engraved with reindeer antlers.
After dinner we lingered by the fire, sipping wine while waiting for the last traces of sun to disappear behind the horizon. Having briefly spotted the Aurora from the plane as we arrived the day before, I assumed the chances of seeing it for a second night in a row would be slim. But, ever hopeful, I wandered back to my cabin as soon as darkness fell, lay back, and waited. For a couple of hours nothing happened. Then, faintly at first, the magic began.
The initial hint was a subtle glow just above the treeline, and within minutes thick ribbons of green light were shimmering and swirling across the sky. I jumped up to get some photos and instantly tripped over my camera tripod, but even a throbbing toe couldn’t dampen my excitement. It was an unforgettable and surprisingly emotional experience, and I soon realised I was grinning to myself while tears trickled down my face.
In all, the lights danced overhead for an hour or so, before the sky fell still once more. By that point I was buzzing so much that I struggled to drift off to sleep, but I didn’t mind at all. There was something wonderful about snuggling in a warm bed, gazing up at the stars and then the first light of dawn, and I felt surprisingly rested come morning.
So would I recommend a stay in a glass-roofed cabin like the ones at Northern Lights Village Levi? Absolutely. Seeing the Aurora is never guaranteed, but if it fails to put in an appearance you’ll still be treated to beautiful night skies, total tranquility and some very pretty scenery (vibrant autumn foliage in September and October, snow-blanketed pines from November onwards). And you can maximise your chances by keeping an eye on the forecast, signing up to an app with live alerts (I used this one) and staying awake as late as you can. Some people even suggest setting an alarm to go off every hour or so, or drinking a lot of water before bed so that you have to get up to use the bathroom!
It’s worth bearing in mind that the cabins are remote, with nowhere else to eat nearby, and hot water is limited to 20 minutes at a time (just long enough for two people to have a shower). There’s also no option to cover the glass if you find yourself craving total privacy or full darkness. I’d therefore recommend combining a few nights here with a stay at Design Hotel Levi, where you can enjoy all the amenities of town and get some proper sleep. You can read my review of the hotel here, and find out everything else Finnish Lapland has to offer in autumn and winter here and here.
Book a stay at Northern Lights Village Levi here. Rates start at €299 per cabin per night, based on two people sharing on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. There’s also a range of all-inclusive packages encompassing experiences such as snow-shoe walking, snowmobiling, sleigh rides, aurora photography workshops, ice fishing, romantic campfire meals and more.
All photography by Abi Dare
So beautiful. Your photography is stunning. It’s so difficult to capture the Northern Lights and do them justice.
Thank you! I had my camera set up on a tripod and ready focused so that all I had to do was click the shutter and could also enjoy watching the display!